What is the fumigation process?
The fumigation process usually takes 16 - 20 hours. A licensed fumigator covers your home with tarps, prepares the interior, seals the tarps, and releases a warning agent into the home. Then Vikane is introduced into the structure. Bug Central's licensed fumigator will carefully calculate the amount of Vikane, based on a variety of factors including the target pest, temperature and size of the home. After the fumigation is complete, Bug Central's licensed fumigation crew clears the fumigant from the structure following label instructions, and confirms clearance with sensitive monitoring equipment.

What do I need to do to prepare for fumigation?
A licensed fumigator will give you detailed information and a step-by-step checklist in order to allow you to prepare for your fumigation. As a homeowner, some of your preparation steps will include: watering soil and cutting back foliage at least 18 inches from the home; ensuring all people, plants and pets are out of the structure and making overnight arrangements for your family and pets.

What is Vikane gas fumigant?
Vikane is a colorless, odorless gas that quickly penetrates structural materials during fumigation. It is non-staining, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Vikane quickly dissipates from the structure into the atmosphere and does not deplete the ozone.

Does Vikane leave any residues?
Unlike other treatment options, Vikane does not remain in the home after fumigation. It completely dissipates, leaving no surface residues behind. So with Vikane, you don't need to wash your dishes, linens, clothing and other items after fumigation.

Does Vikane cause damage?
Vikane does not react with most materials. It is highly unlikely to cause damage to structures or their contents when properly applied by a trained fumigator.

What precautions are taken to ensure my family's safety?
A licensed fumigator will: (1) Release the warning agent to deter entry to the home. (2) Secure doors on your home with additional locking devices to prevent unauthorized entry. (3) Use sophisticated equipment to ensure that Vikane has dissipated, so you may re-enter your home.

Fumigation information and links

1. What are the different types of termites?
Over 2,300 species of termites, most of them tropical, have been described by entomologists. In the U.S. we have only four groups of termites of economic importance: Subterranean, Drywood, Damp wood, and Powder post Termites. The Subterranean and Dry wood are the two types of termites that cause damage to buildings in Southern California.

Subterranean: Termites live in the soil and must maintain contact with the ground or some other moisture source to survive. They build earthen tubes from the ground into the structure for protection from predators and to help maintain a moist environment. In some rare situations, if water and wood are available from a source other than the soil, subterranean termites can establish a colony with no ground contact.

Drywood: Termites live inside wood and do not make contact with soil. They get the moisture they need to live from humid air. For this reason, Dry wood termites are most common along humid coastal areas.

Termite Colony: Termites are social insects that live in highly organized colonies. Like many insects, they have an egg, an immature, and an adult stage. There are three main types of adults colony members: reproductive, workers, and soldiers. When the colony is several years old and relatively large, it may produce another form of an adult termite called a "swarmer." Swarmers are the termite's way of sending out new kings and queens to start colonies. Normally, at least three to four years or more will pass before any swarming or winged termites from the colony occur.

Swarmers are the most visible form of termites. These termites can be confused with many ants that also swarm in the spring. However, swarming ants have elbowed antennae, a narrow waist, and front wings that are longer than the back wings; swarming termites have straight antennae, a thick waist, and all wings the same length.

TERMITE CONTROL

2. Subterranean termite control

Most subterranean termite control is done by applying either insecticides to the soil or termite monitoring bait stations in or around the structure. The goal is to establish a continuous insecticide barrier between the termite colony (usually in the soil) and wood in a building. Sometimes, there may be a secondary termite colony above the soil (in the roof or other areas with a constant moisture supply) that requires additional treatment. The termite baits do not leave a residual chemical in the soil. However, they can reduce and may eliminate a termite colony. While this method of controlling termites is very appealing because it does not require extensive site preparation such as drilling or trenching and extensive application of insecticide to the soil or structure, research is still ongoing to develop the most effective baits and delivery systems.

WHOLE-STRUCTURE VS. LOCALIZED OR SPOT TREATMENTS

3. What are the different drywood termite controls?

All drywood termite control methods can be categorized as either whole-structure or localized. A whole-structure treatment is defined as the simultaneous treatment of all infestations, accessible, and inaccessible in a structure. A localized or spot treatment is more restrictive often applied to a single board or small group of boards. Homeowners are advised to know the distinction between whole-structure and spot treatments when deciding which method to select because all treatment methods are not equivalent.

Whole-structure treatments have an advantage over spot treatments in that they are detection independent. This means whole-structure treatments, if applied properly, can eliminate all infestations, even hidden ones. With the unreliability of current detection methods, there is always some doubt as to the extent of drywood termite colony boundaries within homes. Consequently, one can never be sure that all infestations have been treated.

FUMIGATION AS A WHOLE-STRUCTURE TREATMENT

4. What is a fumigation?

Fumigation is the process where insects are eliminated from a structure with the use of lethal gas. Fumigation's are carried out using essentially two chemicals: Vikane Gas Fumigant (Sulfuryl Fluoride) and Methyl Bromide also a gas fumigant. These gases are odorless and colorless and leave no residue. Therefore, prior to the fumigation, applicators introduce trace amounts of Chloropicrin. Chloropicrin (Tear gas) has a strong odor and will cause respiratory and eye irritation.
In September 2000, the California Department of Pesticide Regulation initiated new procedural regulations that have made the use of Methyl Bromide fumigant extremely impractical and costly. The result, of these new regulations, was to essentially stop the use of Methyl Bromide as a structural fumigant in the State of California.

5. Fumigation preparation

Items to be addressed in preparation for the fumigation of the average home are:

1. All people, pets, (including fish and/or fish tanks), and plants must be removed from the home. If it's 'living', take it out!
2. All food and medicines should be removed or sealed in special bags (your contractor will inform you about these fume-bags) according to the instructions from the fumigator.
3. Outside plants close to the structure should be cut back from the house to allow workers access to the walls of the building. The perimeter of the structure should be heavily watered to help prevent the fumigant from moving into the soil and affecting the plants.
4. Antennas, chimney caps, and weather vanes should be removed.
5. Fences without gates attached to the house may need to have some boards removed to allow the tarps to reach the ground.
6. The Vikane label states, "Remove mattresses (except water beds) and pillows which are completely enveloped in waterproof covers or remove covers."

All mattresses encased in permanent, waterproof coverings must be removed from the structure prior to the introduction of the fumigant, including infant mattresses. Detachable waterproof covers may be removed from the mattress or pillow in lieu of removing the object from the structure. Box springs are considered mattresses for the purposes of this determination.

6. How do I know how much will be used?

Fumigant Dosage Determination: Because of a multitude of structural, environmental, and fumigation variations, there are no two fumigation jobs that are identical. The required dosage of Vikane is influenced by the temperature at the site, the length of exposure period, and the susceptibility of the pest to be controlled. The typical single family home fumigation involves the use of a 16-18 ounces/1000 cubic foot.

7. How long will the fumigation last?

Fumigation period: Vikane is usually held in the structure for approximately 16-30 hours. Fumigation time is depending upon the factors mentioned previously.

8. How does the fumigant leave the house?

Aeration: During the aeration, the fumigator aerates the structure with operable doors and windows open and with the aid of a fan for a full hour before securing the structure and allowing a total of six to eight hours of additional aeration.

9. When will it be safe to return?
Entering the structure: Absolutely no one can enter a structure until it has been certified safe for reentry by the licensee in-charge of the fumigation. To ensure that even the owner or tenant cannot reenter a structure, the company is required to put a secondary lock on all outside doors that only the company can open.

Fumigation Orange County - Pest Control Orange County

Fumigation Orange County check list of what to do before Fumigation ... Although extreme cautions is used Fumigation Orange County will not be responsible

Manual of fumigation for insect control - Contents

Schedule T. Fumigation for controlling rodents and other mammalian pests, snakes , birds, snails, ants' nests, wasps and termites




Fumigators Links and Resources
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